Reaching New Heights


Posted by Salman Mitha

Posted in Outdoor Sports


Munich, November 9 – After a five week expedition to the Szechuan Province in China, the 2012 German expedition team returned home beaming with success.

Five young mountain climbers were able to complete the first ascent of the nameless, 5910 meter mountain in East Tibet.  They completed three new, more difficult routes through steep rock and ice flanks of the granite giants called “Melcyr Shan”.  The “Lost Mountain” is located in the Tshiburongi Valley, 220 kilometers southwest of Chengdu, China.

The Deutscher Alpenverein (DAV) expedition team of Reinhard Hones, Max Dünsser, Felix Sattelberger, Dario Haselwarter, and Mirko Breckner was led by David Göttler from September 30 to November 3, 2012.


Sport Eagle TV with DAV Expedition Team 2012, China



During the first expedition days, it rained and snowed heavily. However, the team was able to set up the base camp at 4,000 meters, as well as the supply station at the base of the wall at 4600 meters.

The team took advantage of the subsequent good weather to make their first ascents.  They arrived via a line to the summit on October 16.mmit, which began with a relatively easy snow channels and in the middle part, some moderate mixed climbing was required.

“The last three pitches were difficult because of strong ice formations on the summit ridge,” explained Mr. Göttler.  “We all had to concentrate.” Just days later, on October 22nd,  Reinhard, Dario and Mirko completed the second new route.

The view of the three-man-team’s bivak. Photo courtesy DAV

For the first ascent via the east ridge, the climbers spent two days on the wall, which required challenging climbing.  They described their bivac at 5650 meters as “quite uncomfortable” because of the space on a small snow band – for three people it was quite cramped.

The final goal was completed when Reinhard and David opened a new ice-line, which ended shortly before the summit in the first planned route.

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Melcyr Shan in the Tschiburongi Valley, China Photo courtesy DAV

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